Fancy a visit to a tiny Welsh town on the Island of Anglesey? Back in the late 13th century, King Edward I, that all-powerful English king, chanced to build a castle there, his last as it happens in his efforts to subjugate the Welsh. Fortunately he was strapped for cash, probably due to those pesky Scots in the north and his endless warring with the French.
Sited on the Menai Straits, Edward knew any troops besieged at Beaumaris could be sustained with supplies from his ships. The castle was constructed to refute any land-based attack as well with its moat and state of the art concentric castle-within-a-castle technology. Edward’s legacy of massive stone castles in Wales is a stark reminder of the man’s energy and determination… dark days indeed.
For the modern traveller, especially for the history lover, there is much to see in the area and the town which has grown up around the castle. It’s some time since I was there last but my memory is of a clean, quiet village. Having not long read Sharon Penman’s fantastic series on the medieval Welsh princes, I was keen to retrace elements of that period and had been looking for the Priory of Llanfreas where Prince Llewelyn had imprisoned his wife, after her affair with the ill-fated William de Braose, a Norman Marcher lord. He was hanged for his treasonable act; Joan and her prince eventually reconciled until her death a few years later. Given such a layered, complex relationship – of love, a very public betrayal and retribution, and reconciliation – Llwellyn was inconsolable. Joan’s sarcophagus was reputed to lie in one of the churches though her remains had disappeared and the stone vessel used as a horse watering trough. Today, as so often happens, doubt has been cast upon this legend. The priory which existed to the north of the town was destroyed in the dissolution of the monasteries and Joan’s remains with it. Where she lies remains a mystery.
Undeterred, the town of Beaumaris and its castle proved a fine consolation….just a short walk from the castle, I was happy to wander the ancient streets admiring a fine range of quirky buildings, even stopping for a dram along the way.
The foreshore was a dog walker’s paradise and a picturesque spot to absorb the beauty of the mountains across the waters of the Straits. Not for the first time I wondered at Joan’s imprisonment within sight of, but so far from, her home.
Of course, King Edward’s plans for his castle had not even been thought of then and the town of Beaumaris didn’t exist.
Poor Wales – all that darkness and destruction came much, much later.
With all there was to see, I missed the puffins… maybe next time! Perhaps I’ll see you then?