A Momentous Occasion

Robert the Bruce

On 25th March, 1306, a new King of Scots was crowned. To mark this turning point in Scottish history, here is an excerpt from my book, Sisters of The Bruce.

Imagine if you will, Kirsty Bruce in her chamber. Outside the wind has picked up. A candle flickers. Shadows dance across the walls. Kirsty picks up her quill, tests the point and begins to write. She knows, in far off Norway, Isabel is desperate for news of the family.

Kildrummy Castle

March 1306

Isa, dear heart,

  A dreadful event has taken place. At Dumfries, Robert went to confront the Comyn regards his treachery. Involved in some disputes being heard at the judicial court, Comyn was lodged at Greyfriars Kirk. It was upon this neutral ground the pair met at Robert’s request. An argument ensued. Both men drew their daggers. In front of the high altar, they struggled. Comyn fell to the ground. When his uncle rushed to his aid, Christopher struck the older man with a blow to the head, killing him. The friars carried the younger man into the vestry. Shocked, Rob ran outside. Some of his men went back in to make sure the Comyn was dead. Chaos followed. With many rallying to his banner, Robert’s force seized Dumfries Castle. The justices barricaded themselves behind the doors of the Great Hall where they had been holding the Assizes Court. Our brother threatened to burn the place down. Surrender was prompt!

  From February through to March, the fiery cross was carried from hillside to hillside across Scotland alerting men to raise arms, this time for the Bruce. Castle after castle fell to Robert and his men: Dumfries, Tibbers, Dalswinton and Ayr. Across the Firth of Clyde, Robert Boyd took Rothesay on Bute, and then placed Inverkip under siege. Through the exchange of another, our brother gained Dunaverty Castle on the tip of Kintyre. Our own castle on the isle in Loch Doon was placed in the hands of my lord husband. With a defensive ring of fortified castles in place, Robert hoped to protect the western seaboard, thus curtailing the movement of English ships based at Skinburness. Only then might our allies from Ireland travel with impunity. Without success, Robert sought the surrender of the great rock fortress of Dumbarton on the Clyde.

  Despite a murder having been committed on holy ground, Bishop Wishart exhorted his flock to rise up and support Robert. The old Celtic process of tanistry had run its regrettable course, especially when all attempts at reasonable compromise had failed. March saw our brother swear an oath before the bishop to fight for the freedom of Scotland and uphold the liberties of the Scottish church, long overpowered by Rome and Avignon. Notables from all over the country headed for Scone.

  Our contingent arrived, relieved to be attending the royal coronation of one of our dearest members.  Meanwhile, Bishop Lamberton escaped from Berwick under cover of darkness. By taking the ferry from North Berwick, he reached Scone. Nothing, he said, would have kept him from witnessing Scotland’s destiny take shape and form. Where possible, all royal traditions were to be maintained for this great event and, when Robert was crowned king, he sat upon a large block of stone on Moot Hill.

  It was rumoured some months before the theft of the Stone of Destiny a replica of the ancient stone seat was secreted in its stead by Scone’s canny monks. If it were so, then it seemed the English king was none the wiser. 

  I wish you could have been with us, Isa. No one, not least Robert, liked how it had come about, but all were euphoric and willing to go with the grandeur of the occasion. All through the night we banqueted and danced. For a brief time, our country’s woes were pushed from the foreground of our thoughts.

Only Elizabeth, our new queen, her mood sombre and restrained, reflected on what the future might hold, expressions of fear and worry jostling with pride and love. King Edward was known to be a cruel, unforgiving man to his enemies. In his wrath, he would unleash the full force of the mighty English host upon her lord husband and his beloved Scotland. This Elizabeth understood. Once, she told me, she prayed they would come to an understanding. Now, she knew their differences could only be decided by war. Edward could never grasp how the community of the realm mattered so deeply to Robert. At its core, this Celtic belief was at odds with the feudal superiority of the English king. Ultimately, it set Robert apart.

  The next day, a small party of horsemen rode in to Scone, gasping mounts lathered white. Concealed for safety within the group was Countess Isobel of Buchan, wife of the earl who was a firm supporter of England. She escaped her husband’s harsh care to ride to Scone to fulfill the ancient role belonging to the earls of Fife – her own family line – to crown the Scottish monarchy.

  Keen to uphold tradition and legitimise his status, Robert had a second coronation take place to great acclaim. With the ceremony complete, our family accompanied the king to Kildrummy where Mhairi and the household had prepared a great banquet. How proud you would have been to see our household gathered in the Great Hall, cheering our brother, mugs of wine and ale raised to his health and happiness. You were sorely missed, dear one.

Kirsty

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A Battle, a Curse and a Ghost or Two – what more could you ask for?

Well, there’s a whole lot more to Pitreavie Castle. The history of this 17th century fortified manor is closely entwined with the Kingdom of Fife in Scotland: its strategic location in medieval times, and in more recent years, to the Forth road and rail bridges.

When the Wars of Independence were underway, the abbots of Dunfermline Cathedral held sway over these lands. Some reports suggest it was owned at one stage by a sister of Robert the Bruce. That Lady Christina (or Kirsty – for those familiar with my book, Sisters of The Bruce) lived here really piqued my interest but that early castle is long gone.  I like to think it was the centrality of its location, close to Robert’s royal court, that drew her to this site, offering a sanctuary particularly with Kildrummy Castle in a ruined state.

 

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Moving forward to 1615, we find the lands owned by Queen Anne. When her husband,  James VI, moved south to London, she passed the care of the property to her Chamberlain, Sir Henry Wardlaw, who constructed the core of the current building.

A few decades on, Henry’s heirs must have been horrified to hear the clash of swords, crack of muskets and cries of dying men. Close by the battle of Inverkeithing raged. A force of six thousand Cromwellian soldiers defeated a lesser force of Highlanders in bloody slaughter.

A ragged band of Maclean clansmen sought sanctuary at the gates of Pitreavie Castle but were refused entry. Some of its household even hurled roof slates at the retreating figures. Appalled by their treatment, a few gifted souls cast their own curses. In time, the Wardlaw family saw its fortunes decline with the untimely deaths of its male members.

As with many ancient sites, sadness and mayhem left souls wandering in search of loved ones. A Green Lady, no less, is reported to trawl the grounds calling out to her husband, and a headless highlander searches for his comrades, groaning when he finds them dead.

Not surprisingly over the centuries and after a series of owners, the castle fell into a ruinous state hidden within its wild, untended garden.img_2469

But an intriguing renaissance took place in 1938. Outbuildings were added and a subterranean bunker carved out beneath the grounds to house the Royal Navy and Royal Air Force coastal command. Ventilation ducts and escape tunnels lay concealed beneath the flat roof of a tennis court. For all intents and purposes, it was a successful subterfuge. But deep within that underground labyrinth, they must have felt the eerie shudder of bombs dropped nearby – failed attempts by the enemy to take out the crucial transport link of the Forth Rail Bridge.dsc08364

After WWII came the Cold War. Within its hidden bunker, Pitreavie was well-placed to house the HQ for NATO North Atlantic command. But even with substantial upgrades, the site proved insufficient for MOD needs. In 1996, the military buildings were demolished and the entrance to the underground bunker sealed using explosives.

Now, this substantial manor house has been divided into luxury apartments: one is even available through AirB&B.

What a treat it would be to stay here, to feel the layers of history blur around you. In the gathering dusk, you might even hear the distant sounds of battle, faint cries of ghostly spirits or the brittle staccato of communication channels telling the world of bombs falling nearby.dscn0595

References: http://www.maclean.org; AirB&B; Tales and Traditions of Scottish Castles by Nigel Tranter

 

 

 

 

A Birthday Wish for the Bard

You will know of course that today is the birthday of Scotland’s famous poet and songwriter. In our household, we’ll be raising a glass tonight to wish him well. But what is it that makes his work revered by Scots the world over.

Robert Burns followed in the bardic tradition  – except that he did not write great sagas or incite the clans to war. Written in Scottish vernacular, his stories and songs reflected elements of  a simpler life that warmed many a hearth – at a time when to be a Scot was looked down upon. To my mind, his writings helped enrich the national identity, not to mention the Dumfries area where he lived and worked.

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It is a remarkable heritage that Burns Suppers are held throughout the world at this time. Displayed on a silver salver, the haggis – that ‘great chieftain of the pudding race’ – is ceremoniously piped in and sliced open. Those of  a squeamish disposition may recoil at the spilling of what looks like the insides of a stomach. However it is a delicious concoction of meat and spices contained within a sheep’s stomach lining, reflecting the ability of folk who in harsh times had to make the most economic use of their resources. Usually, it is served with boiled, mashed ‘neeps’ (turnips) and ‘tatties’ (potatoes). The menu may also include a broth of some sort, followed by a desert, perhaps a whisky trifle (a Tipsy Laird), and cheese and oatcakes. To my mind, the meal is a symbolic poetic gesture – to celebrate the resilience of Scots in times of hardship. For those at home and abroad, it resonates on many levels.

But haggis is not just a celebratory meal, it is a staple on most pub menus in Scotland, and is definitely one of my favourites. A whisky sauce and oatcakes make welcome additions.dsc04950

I love the old traditions. So tonight, we will recite the Selkirk Grace,

” Some  hae meat and canna eat

And some wad eat that want it

But we hae meat, and we can eat

Sae let the Lord be thankit”

…and share a dram or two for young Rabbie who brought so much to our world.

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Some Festive Cheer

To celebrate this festive season, come along with me to two of my favourite drinking establishments in Scotland. Oh… if only I could be there to shout you a drink!

Some of you might know the Canny Mans hotel in Edinburgh’s Morningside. A treat for the eyes and never dull…. I can spend hours here just checking out all the interesting bits and bobs that enliven the walls and, yes, the ceiling.

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For our next round, you’ll have to travel south to Dumfries but it was a place well-known to  a certain poet.And if it was good enough for Robbie Burns then the Globe Inn is certainly good enough for me! DSC00498DSC00490DSC00486DSC00489

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For me, these old buildings hold echoes of conversations past, whispered secrets, memories tucked away midst the paraphernalia and golden glow of half empty bottles.

I catch the clink of glass, the slow intake of breath, and imagine stories embellished at the end of the working day….surely too sad tales of times not so good – jobs lost, bills unpaid, individuals and families damaged by immoderate imbibing – but hopefully somewhere in the mix, good cheer and open-hearted friendship especially at festive times.

With 2016 coming to a close, I’ll be thinking of my own past visits greatly enjoyed within these lovely old walls, and wish you all, wherever you are in the world, a happy, safe and peaceful Christmas and Hogmanay, and a joyous future.

A Gem of a Place

Paul McCartney knew a thing or two when he sang about the Mull of Kintyre, but a gem of a place awaits if you trust your instincts and head north. At journey’s end, you’ll be richly rewarded.

Over the years, I have been fortunate indeed to visit the Scottish castle of Saddell, and its nearby abbey, on the Kilbrannan Sound on the shores of eastern Kintyre.

Have you ever heard of Somerled, Lord of the Isles?  He figures strongly in the history of the area, and his remains rest at the abbey. Set beside a stream within a verdant glen, the monastery now lies in ruins. Irish Cistercian monks farmed their sheep here, trading with Flemish weavers. Surely, old monks, and perhaps even Somerled himself, must walk these paths. Why would anyone ever want to leave?

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I’m not sure what came first – the castle or the abbey but, much like the threads of an ancient tapestry, their tales are entwined. In the early 14th century, when the Knights Templar were hounded from France, rumours abounded that they, and their allegedly fabulous treasure, found sanctuary at Saddell. When the dusk heaves with shadows, silent and dense, it is easy to imagine such a connection for nearby, within a weather-proof shelter, effigies of faceless men set into old grave stones, stand at attention, proud in the distinctive suits of the time, swords at the ready. But these are much, much older – men of the isles, highland lords in full armour, perhaps even the men of Somerled, or his son, Ragnald, patrons of this abbey.

I imagine Somerled’s birlinn sweeping into the bay, his men leaping ashore. The Norse warrior skills of this “summer sailor” gained him the Hebridean islands all the way from the Butt of Lewis in the far north, to the Isle of Man in the south, forging a kingdom, independent of its closest neighbour, medieval Scotland. Somerled must have looked around him, counted his blessings, and set about earning heavenly favour by building an abbey – now sadly long gone.

But there is still plenty to see and experience in the area. Nearby, down a long treed driveway, you will come across an evocative castle, a more recent addition to this ancient landscape

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I particularly liked the walled enclosure and tangled mossy garden, hidden spaces aplenty. The gardeners amongst us might ponder upon this peaceful sanctuary, protected from the elements, and the plants grown here so long ago.

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Silhouetted against the fading sunlight, the crenelations of this Scottish tower house will take your breath away.

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Originally built in the 16th century as lodgings for a warrior bishop, David Hamilton – with wood-paneled chambers, vaulted ceilings, curved stairwells, a trapdoor or two, and a dungeon, this abode has known many owners. And with the ebb and flow of Scotland’s contentious politics, they must have heard the clash of sword and smelt the sickening stench of fire when the castle was sacked by opposing forces.

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In more peaceful times, seals and otters play in the shallow waters of the rocky shore and visitors can stay at the castle and estate cottages, courtesy of the Landmark Trust.It’s a gem of a place and, like me, you’ll be singing its praises.

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Who was the Father of Europe?

Take a walk back in time to 745AD. Who knew the child born to Pepin the Short and his wife, Bertrada, would unite the western world?

When his father died, and elder brother followed soon after, Charles, or Charlemagne as he became known, inherited a split kingdom. Tactically brilliant, he out-maneuvered his opponents and, empowered by his pious beliefs, went on to subdue many of the pagan tribes across Europe. Christianity was enforced; options were limited – submit or die. Many thousands perished in the process.

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A favourite of the Pope, Charles was seen as a protector of the Catholic faith and was crowned Holy Roman Emperor on Christmas Day 800AD. A powerful, handsome, athletic man – tall, bull-necked, round-bellied …these are some of the descriptions applied to him. He must have towered over his subjects, dominating them by his physical prowess and ruthless reputation.

But here we also see a different side to his character.

Being somewhat of a renaissance man, he favoured education, written reforms and diplomacy in his later years. With his grasp of languages and fluency in Latin and Greek, he developed schools to educate the clergy to become administrators, ensuring stability across his kingdom, covering much of what we know today as France, Germany and Belgium.

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With multiple wives and mistresses, he fathered sixteen or more children and was by all accounts a devoted father. From his family tree, many branches spread across Europe into England and up into Scotland through dynastic royal marriages.

Charlemagne, or Charles the Great, had a passionate love of swimming, and enjoyed the warm springs of Aix-la-Chappelle, a town of Belgian origin: now in Germany, and renamed Aachen. If you’re exploring the glories of the nearby Rhine and Moselle Rivers, take a short drive to this western German border town, your efforts will be well-rewarded.

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Look down, and you will see the king’s emblem – K for Karolus – embedded in the cobbled streets.

dsc09077Grab a coffee; munch on some of the spiced biscuits, a regional delicacy, from the local bakery, and head to the museum.

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On display in a massive vault, lies a breath-taking wealth of golden treasure.

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Around the corner, you’ll find the cathedral – a miracle of design, filled with intricate mosaic patterns over the walls and ceilings, and curved trails of marble flooring. My neck ached from staring up at the spectacle of zillions of tiny glass mosaic pieces fashioned into swirling patterns glittering in the lamplight.

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This is Charlemagne’s enduring legacy, and his resting place. A grander tomb would be hard to find for the man, some might call, the Father of Europe.

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Unsung Heroes

How might you feel if you had given your life in the service of your country but been passed over by other souls with grander stories: whose lives were now remembered with statues and legends embossed by tales of courage and daring?

Scotland has many such heroes. I pondered upon this as I climbed the mound of Ormond Castle on the Black Isle, home to the family of Sir Andrew Murray (de Moray), twice-honoured as a Guardian of Scotland.

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On this gentleman’s behalf, I felt a strange mix of compassion and sadness for he (and his father) had played pivotal roles in the country’s fight for independence.

With only seabirds for company, I admired the view down to the village and sea below. Now the castle is long gone, but echoes of the past continue to hover over this northern eerie.DSC07994

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Buffeted by a brisk wind, a flag marks the place where Sir Andrew Murray senior, put out a call to arms. I imagined the cheers of his men and fear on the face of his pregnant wife. He had been captured after the disastrous battle at Dunbar, when Longshanks’ army poured over the border. Along with many others, his own father had been taken to the Tower while he was transported to Chester. Somehow he escaped and made his way back to his home. He had a lot to live for and a lot to lose. With his men, he raided Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle before joining up with William Wallace, overcoming an English host at the Battle of Stirling in 1297. Wallace went onto greatness but Murray is believed to have perished from his wounds.DSC07988

With such a pedigree, his son also achieved much in his short lifetime. Born posthumously into a war-torn country, young Andrew Murray was taken prisoner when only five years old and spent his youth in England. What happened to him there is a matter of conjecture, but he was not released until the prisoner exchanges after the battle of Bannockburn in 1315.

How do you come back from such a start in life? A childhood spent in England was meant to mould the children of rebels into English citizens, the aim of the king no doubt. But for some, like Andrew, their spirits remained unbroken and true to their homeland; a huge effort of will, which must have had its share of danger.

Upon his return, he regained the hereditary lordships of Avoch and Petty and became a trusted supporter of Robert the Bruce. Such loyalty was rewarded with other lands in the north and south of Scotland, and the prestigious hand of the king’s sister, Christina. Some of you will know her as Kirsty (the informal version of Christina) in my novel, Sisters of The Bruce. That Kirsty was twenty years his senior is intriguing. Perhaps his time as a key figure in the north, where she also had lands, and his position as the commander of Kildrummy Castle led to a deepening of their relationship. There were shared experiences as well in that they had both been imprisoned in England for many years.

Just before his death in 1329, King Robert achieved what he had striven for – an independent Scotland, free from oppression. Peace was short lived.

Edward Balliol, son of the former king whom Longshanks had stripped of his power, returned from exile in France and with the support of Edward III was making military forays into Scotland. Robert had left behind an heir, five year old David, and the country was placed in the hands of political and military guardians.

The following year in 1330, one of Robert’s key lieutenants, Sir James Douglas, was killed in Spain taking his king’s heart on crusade. Sir Thomas Randolph rose to the challenge as Scotland’s supreme leader but died suddenly in 1332. By this time, Kirsty’s son, Donald of Mar, had returned from England, and became Guardian. He was killed at the Battle of Dupplin Moor in the August of 1332.

Balliol assumed kingship. In return for Edward III’s financial and military aid, England would gain control of the border lands. Scotland’s fortunes were at low ebb as the country once again plunged into civil war.

The supporters of Robert’s son – the child king, David – rallied their forces against Balliol. As the newly-elected Guardian, Sir Andrew Murray, led an assault on Roxburgh Castle but was captured in the process. Cognizant of his status, he refused to be the prisoner of anyone other than England’s king. He had the mettle to stand up to his captors and was handed over to Edward III at Durham.

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Another period of imprisonment followed. No doubt it saved the Lord of Avoch’s life. Towards the end of 1333, a battle took place just outside the town of Berwick. That day, Halidon Hill ran red with the blood of pro-Bruce supporters as English long bowmen plied their deadly trade. Many earls and leaders of the rebellion against Balliol died including Hugh Ross and Archibald Douglas, the then Guardian.

It was not until 1334, that Andrew was released. Once again he returned to Scotland. Once again he was elected Guardian, raising opposition to Balliol, attacking and besieging his supporters in their castles.

In 1335, pro-Bruce supporters held a parliament. It must have been a fiery affair for opinions were divided. Believing all was lost, some of the magnates decided to surrender to Balliol but not Murray: he and others, went into hiding.

When David de Strathbogie, a longtime enemy of the Bruce family, laid siege to Kildrummy Castle, Murray mobilized a force of a thousand men and rode to deliver his wife and children.

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It was during this siege that we see Kirsty, once again, come into her own as she held the castle until her husband arrived. It must have been a frightening prospect – the outlook grim indeed for all within if it was taken, or the alternative, enduring months of starvation until resources petered out. She did not falter. Her courage was rewarded. Andrew’s force arrived and led the besiegers away to Culblean. The confrontation was bloody and decisive. Strathbogie and many of his men died that bleak November day in 1335.

This was a turning point. Balliol’s attempts to consolidate his kingship continued to waver though peace was still a very, very long way off. The infant king, David, and his wife, Joan – sister to Edward III, were evacuated to France where they remained for seven years. As a young teen , King David II returned to take up the cause but was captured at the Battle of Neville’s Cross. He spent years in imprisonment before a costly ransom was finally paid for his release by the people of Scotland.

I would like to be able to say that Andrew and Kirsty lived happily ever after but…

My eyes strayed over the grassy mound of Avoch. So much had happened here. I imagined Sir Andrew Murray brought home on a litter, just a few short years after the battle at Culblean, weakened by injury or illness, the toll of  a warrior’s life. I hoped Kirsty might have been with him when he died, and that she was there when he was buried in nearby Fortrose – a young man by our standards; he was not yet 40.

Many years later, his body was re-interred at Dunfermline Abbey to lie beside many of the kings and queens of Scotland; a quiet accolade for a little known hero.

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The ruins of Fortrose Cathedral

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